
For 3,000 islands with a landmass roughly the size of California, Japan has more than enough attractions, from snow-topped mountains to sub-tropical beaches and a metropolis comparable to New York City, to engross travelers for months. Riding through the hilly roads of the main island, Honshu, and watching the steady changes in infrastructure, it’s hard to believe that a culture so racially harmonized is so mixed when it comes to everyday lifestyles. Of course, a few common bonds run throughout the country, such as politeness and other social formalities. But seeing Japan in its entirety is something that takes more of an open mind than a tolerance for heavy traveling.
When Kawabata wrote Snow Country in the 1930s, he set the book’s narrative in Niigata on the western backbone of Japan. Regardless, even Japanese natives today picture the frigid wintry setting to look more like Wakkanai, located at the tiptop of the country. Japan’s northernmost island, Hokkaido, is the perfect vacation place for nature and frost lovers. It’s also a high challenge for experienced skiers and snowboarders. Often frequented by travelers searching for some cleaner air after staying in Tokyo, Hokkaido’s six cities house ice drifts, large national parks and the best hot spring (onsen) resorts in the country. You might even get to meet one of Japan’s remaining geisha there.
Far south in Japan’s warmest region, the rustic village islands of Ryûkyû (including Okinawa) are the best locale for beach lovers. Swim, fish, eat, drink, repeat is the usual routine for natives and tourists. Even if a Pacific archipelago seems too remote for a get away, Japan’s Bullet Train (shinkansen), which runs along the east coast of the four largest islands, stops at various mainland beach resorts. One of the more popular places for foreigners during the warm seasons is Shimoda on the Izu peninsula. Known for its coastal scenery, historical background and arguably Japan’s second best onsen, Shimoda is also a common escape for city locals. Tokyo, Mt. Fuji and nearby temples are all within two hours by train, making it an ideal respite for those traveling to the big city from down south.
Be aware, though, that exploring Tokyo, even for a few days, is a full trip onto itself. Much like New York City is to the rest of the United States, Tokyo possesses its own distinct culture. Through the sea of baseball caps, schoolgirl uniforms and pairs of $300 designer jeans, you can still spot the traditional kimono and obi. On some occasions, you might even see a person dressed in a kimono with tattoos and facial piercing as well. Similarly, for every fast-food joint, karaoke bar and club venue, you can find a quiet place to enjoy tempura and sake; and of course, every imaginable fusion in between.
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A large part of observing Tokyo’s culture is being able to break down the hodgepodge of Asian and Western influences appropriately. One of the simplest blunders an American traveler could make is assuming that since a young girl sitting on the train is wearing a shirt that says “Play it LOUD!” she won’t mind loud music blasting from headphones. She will. And you’ll know when she quickly gets up to change her seat. Sure, as much as modern Tokyoites have adopted trends of Western fashion and cuisine, the normal custom is still comprised of subtlety and outward politeness. Even the young guys dressed like rap artists on the street still bow to their elders at school and at work. Imagine Eminem doing that.
Apart from the cultural dichotomy, Tokyo is full of every metropolitan amenity under the red sun. Divided into twenty-three wards (ku), each having its own character, Tokyo is Japan’s melting pot far beyond the people that live there. For electronics and video game lovers, Akihabara and Odaiba house some of the largest retail stores in the world. For those missing the luxurious lifestyles of SoHo or Rodeo Drive, Roppongi Hills and Otemesando Hills are fabulous places to spend a lot of cash. For the clubgoers and late eaters, Shibuya is the district that never sleeps—even though Tokyo’s subway doesn’t run between 1am and 5am. And for those who honestly believe American sushi has changed their life, the Tsukiji fish market might just change the outcome of reincarnation for the next three.
It would take almost a solid year to see each separate part of Japan to the fullest—an entire lifetime to observe all of the cultural subtleties, regional histories, various backgrounds and dialects, customs and foods. Of course, you could easily breeze through the country in a week from Okinawa to Wakkanai, but it’s more satisfying to take several trips, as many as you can afford, and enjoy Nihon one region at a time.
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