Americans don’t know Thai food—at least not real Thai food, Chef Ian Chalermkittichaisays.Walk through the doors of Kittichai, the restaurant Chalermkittichai opened in 2003, and you are instantly struck by the sumptuous ambiance of Southeast Asian flavor. The dining hall is decked out in dark wood, golden silk, orchids and dimly lit water candlesover a serene pond. Open a menu, but don’t expect to see pad thai or tom yum among itsbroad array of entrees. Not that he doesn’t enjoy pad thai, this innovative chef just believes there’s much more in Thailand’s culinary reportoire that most Westerners have yet to discover.

The celebrated chef in his native Thailand offers his take on modern Thai cuisine in one of New York City’s most highly rated Asian restaurants. Kittichai, in the heart of Manhattan, serves Thai cuisine fit for the Royal Family. Giant, succulent prawns are mixed with citrus fruits, spices and roasted nuts. Entrees of fresh seafood and meat areaccentuated with fresh Asian herbs and spices that entice Thai foodís distinct balance ofsalty, sweet, spicy and sour. Dishes are authentic items from regions all over Thailand,not just the mainstream staples most American foodies have learned to digest.

While modern takes on traditional cuisines has often taken on the “fusion cuisine” label, Chalermkittichai refuses to call himself a “Fusion” chef. To him, fusion is just a trendy word for confusion.“Thai chefs will put in vegetables like bell peppers and zucchini in their green curry toplease the Western palette,” says Chalermkittichai. “These vegetables aren’t native to Thailand, but I see it all the time. I put in eggplant in my own green curry, and it takesawhile for some people to get used to it. Using all the traditional ingredients, it’s all thesame flavor, just a different approach.”

Chalermkittichai’s approach includes employing Western cooking techniques to maketraditional Thai dishes, including roasting duck in an oven (most Thai kitchens are sansovens). But the real challenge is finding the ingredients for his dishes, sometimes growing his own kaffir lime leaves and other herbs in tropical areas such as Palm Beach, Fla. But the extra effort is worth it, says Chalermkittichai.“ The ingredients are the most essential part of the meal,” says Chalermkittichai. “I’ll ask people what comes to mind when they think of Thai food and they always say theingredients—fish sauce, lemon grass, basil.

They have to be fresh.” Chalermkittichai’s dedication to the art of cooking has elevated him to celebrity status in his native Thailand where he hosted a travel and cooking show, and opened several top-rated restaurants. He even took on Chef Mario Bitalli in a Kitchen Stadium battle on the Food Network’s Iron Chef. His culinary skills have taken him to London and Sydney,Australia, and finally as the executive chef at the Four Seasons hotel in Bangkok. Next in the pipeline is a project in Tel Aviv and Malaysia.“I’m not transforming the food, because I can’t reinvent it,” says Chalermkittichai. “But Ican change the style. And that just happens to be my own. If people like it, ok. But I hope they will.” Judging by the approval of sophisticated culinary enthusiasts the world over, they have